Back today, as promised, with some wonderful water colouring tips from our talented Guest Designer this month, Sophie La Fontaine. We love the way Sophie makes scenes with stamps on her cards and layouts, and today she shares some of her methods with us.
1. Cut watercolour paper (I use Strathmore's 140 lb cold-pressed) to 3.75" x 5". This size would layer nicely onto a typical 4.25" x 5.5" card.
3. Start painting! You can paint anything in any order you'd like. For me, I started by painting the wall. After the paint dried, I painted the carpet. Do wait for the paint to dry, or the new colour might "bleed" onto the first (still-wet) colour. I painted these large two areas (wall and carpet) first because it made me feel like I was accomplishing something since it LOOKED like most of it was coloured by now.
For those with no watercolors: I bought a starter kit of student-grade watercolors at Michael's with a 40%-off coupon. I also bought a waterbrush , but a paintbrush would also be fine. Just make sure the tip of the brush is nice and pointy to allow the tip to get into tiny spots and make very thin lines. When the tip gets frayed, it's time to buy another brush.
For paper, pick a brand of watercolor paper and stick with it, since different papers absorb colors at different rates. I use Strathmore's 140 lb cold-pressed watercolor paper. The surface is a little bumpy, so a few stamped images may not come out all the way. In these cases, one can stamp on the reverse side, which is a little smoother, or get a waterproof pen to fill in the lines. I use PITT pens, not just to fill in lines, but also to draw a little bit, here and there, or to add my own sentiments.
For the darkest colors, make sure the brush is almost dry, with just enough water to move the paint from the palette to the paper. If it isn't dark enough, I mix in a darker shade of the color, or a darker complementary color. For example, for the dark points of yellow, try mixing with dark brown, dark orange, or black. For the lightest colors, add enough water to the pigment and test it on a scrap of watercolor paper (with time and practice, you can tell if it's light or dark enough without constantly testing it). If not pale enough, add more water.
For most art, what pleases me the most is the range of shades in a piece of artwork, from the darkest darks to the palest lights. This card was for my husband when his soccer team lost. Clear Art Stamp Sets used below: TV, Trophy from SL06 Favorite Fellas, # 2 from SM14 ABC Top Hat, Crying Bug from SL31 Bugs Life, Ticket from SM10 Journey, Push Pins from SM28 Office 101 (she drew note paper), Sentiment from SL02 Card Sentiments.
For rosy cheeks, I apply pink or red paint FIRST and THEN follow after with a pale wash of burnt sienna (my go-to skin color) making sure to color all the face areas first and then the (already pink) cheeks LAST. This way, the other areas of the face stay un-rosy and there are no hard lines on the cheeks. Stamp sets used: SM37 Little Girls
For darker skin tones, I like to mix burnt sienna & brown. For pink skin (ears or palms), I sometimes like to mix a little burnt sienna with just a touch of pink. Mouse is from Mouse Party NOTE from Sandy: I will show the rest of this card and more in the next post and throughout April
Blaine, WA 98230